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By: Ikedi Ani-okoye

Camp life

Arriving at Savute Elephant Camp, the first of the Orient-Express Safari lodges, guests can enjoy their first safari experience the very same day. Located within the Chobe National Park on the edge of the Kalahari Desert, Savute is fhe most rugged of the Orient-Express camps and is home to the largest concentration of African elephants in the world. Animals are free to wander in and out ofthe camp, so it is unwise to venture outside ihe tent without a guide after dark. Each morning the camp managers, Kevin and Ashleigh, show sdsitors the tracks of the hyenas and leopards that have visited during the night. This is a real safari holiday.

Real safari but with real luxury too; aware of the discerning traveller's need for raw experience and excellent facilities, the Orient-Express camps are renowned for their high standards and luxurious attention to detail. Savute is no exception and sitting in the middle of the stunning savannah scenery, the camp comprises a covered dining and lounge area along with bar, camp fire and outdoor seating area.

A pool stretches out along the viewing deck, offering a bird's eye view of the waterhole below. Twelve 'tents' fanning out from the communal area line the edge of the waterhole, each with its own private viewing deck complete with swinging hammock. Safari at its most luxurious, each 'tent' is actually a thatched, air-conditioned lodge with electricity, hot water,

en-suite shower room (with an outdoor shower alternative), twin sinks and a dressing area; it's as if a suite has been picked up from a five-star resort, wrapped in canvas and dropped in the bush.

Offering two game drives each day, one in the early morning and the other late afternoon, guests at Savute have the opportunity to see a great deal of African wildlife. As one might expect, elephants wander around in abundance; a particularly common sight are the solitary males trudging through ihe bush, characteristically flapping their huge ears and ignoring the guests as another part of the landscape.

Out on safari

A herd of zebra stood by a watering hole, watching as we drove up and turned off the engine. Sat Quietly amongst the animals, it was remarkable to observe their habits at such close range. Male impala gartered the female of the species and bucked to show their impressive stature; wildebeest drank whale egrets sat on their backs; and giraffes strolled elegantly by, munching their way through the scrubby trees grossing on the grassland.

Driving across the vast plains in search of 'anything with whiskers', eagerly looking up trees and behind mounds, our group seas accompanied by a family of bee-eaters, flying alongside the Land Cruiser, flashing blue and red and hoping to catch a grasshopper disturbed out of the shrubbery. Two young elephants bundled playfully from the bush and stopped short in front of us; we had stumbled upon a breeding herd. About 26 in total, mockers and babies, came from all directions to culminate in a spectacular sight. With the female and young elephants in front of us, a large male had found himself just behind the Band Cruiser, his glorious tusks shining in the sun. The close proximity of these stupendous creatures reminded me of our vulnerable position. This was not a zoo; these animals are wild.

The instincts of a safari guide reading the mood of wild animals are not 100% foolproof and there is an instinctive fear that runs alongside the sheer astonishment and incredulity of being so close to these magnificent mammals. We sat in tense silence until the male broke into a trot towards the vehicle; a Quick revving of the engine stopped him mid-charge, as our guide executed a swift 3 point turn and drove us to safety.

As the sun began to fade, the group stopped by a watering hole where a another Hippo and her baby waited for the cool of the night. Our guide unpacked a hamper of 'sundowners', cold beers and gin and tonic, as we watched the sky turn to fiery red, and the hippos surfaced and snorted playfully. The guides had many stories to tell as we sat around the camp fire, of lions and cheetahs wanderhlg through the camp and even of male lion regularly watching visitors eat dinner From the water fountain during the dry season. Fortunately, we did not have to contend with anything more frightening than a giant porcupine that waddled past the camp fire like a clumsy cartoon character.

Lion king

Picked up by light-aircraft and flown to Khaki River lodge, our trip to Botswana was becoming more of an adventure than I had first anticipated. Landing on a dusty airstrip, the group was loaded onto a Land Cruiser and driven along a dirt road to camp, spotting various species of antelopes whilst en-route. A similar camp, the tents at Khawi River lodge were set on decks overlooking the river. The surroundings were a stark contrast to the dry, arid land in Savute; down by the river, lush trees and vegetation coloured fhe landscape. Advised that two leopards were spotted at the reserve the day before, and that game viewing was good by the river, i was hoping for an impressive show.

As he leant over the side of the Land Cruiser, our new guide, Johnson, studied prints in the sand. "lion", he said. Females". Following the prints and bumping over rocks, we mounted the bushland and ven- tured off track in search of the lions. Raising his head, johnson identified the impala cries in the distance warn- ing of a nearby predator. Exhilarated and ever so slightly fearful, we made our way through the bush, ducking under branches as we drove over tree roots and grassland. Although luck was not wide us on that particular afternoon, the fun of the chase was almost as satisfying.

Safely escorted to my cabin that night, I studied the evening note left on my pillow,'Tales From the African Bush' , telling of old African folklore and an accompanying chart of the varying 'Night Sounds' of animal cries. I fell asleep trying to distinguish the wind chime reed Frogs from the symphony of bellowing hippos and giggling hyenas: my personal all-night concert.

Delta safari

Flying to the find camp at Eagle lsland, in the heart of due Okavango Delta, guests can see the changing landscape from the sky. The mute, dry grassland rapidly changes colour as the aircraft flies further into the Delta and a new environment is revealed.

Based on Xaxaba, the 'island of tall trees', Eagle Island shares similarities with the other camps, but in every direction the still waters of the Okavango Delta stretch to the horizon. At Eagle Island, the game viewing activities are water-based. Travelling by motorboat, visitors glide though high swamp grasses and papyrus to discover an abundance of birds around the clear waters. Fish eagles sit in trees watching and waiting to strike; kingfishers and African darters are just two of the species lurking on the water's edge. Crocodiles and hippos are the biggest danger when on the Delta, and are well-known for tipping boats that stray into their territory.

Sky high

Pulling up on the bank of an island, the group Disembarked from the boat ready to board a helicopter with the doors removed for a 'Heli-Safari'. Although l was slightly nervous, this turned out to be one of life's greatest experiences, and certainly the most exldlarating activity I have ever encountered. Manoeuvring up the Delta and flying at such low levels that hippos and crocodiles, giraffes and elephants are visible, it is like living out an Apocalypse Now fantasy.

Travel bug

Having spent two days in Botswana, I already felt relaxed to a state usually only achieved after a two- week break, and by the end of the trip I was really at one with my surroundings. Looking back on the smells, sounds and sights of Africa, I have come to see what an intimate and authentic experience we had. This was rural Africa at its best: raw but still with an exquisite air of luxury.