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By: Ikedi Ani-okoye

GEORGETOWN

At the mouth of the Demerara River, on the Atlantic Ocean, lies Georgetornrn, Guyana's capital city. Not much visited by tourists, Georgetormr has a somewhat dilapidated air, but look more closely and you'il discover that it contains a treasure trove of spiendid, wooden, colonial buildings set on tree-lined streets and avenues. Founded by the F-rench in 1782, it was settled and designed to a grid pattern by the Dutch the following year, and renamed Stabroek. As the town was situated 2.1 m (7 ft) below sea level, canals were quickly built, and a seawall erected for protection.

At that time the country's wealth lay in Dem erara sugar and cotton, and large numbers of West African slaves were imported to work the plantations. Ceded to Britain in 1814, Guyana became independent in 1966. St George's Oathedral (1889) was designed by the London architect, Sir Arthur Blomfleld.

This extraordinary Gothic construction, complete with flying buttresses, arches and vaulted ceilings is one of the tallest wooden buildings in the world. Like the wialter Roth Museum with its coloniai style slate roof and 'Demerara windows' with louvred shutters, it is a fabulous building in desperate need of repair.

It's not only the architecture that makes Georgetown so attractive, but also the people: Amerindians, Europeans, Africans, East Indians and Chinese all live and work here. Visit Stabroek Market or window shop in Regent Street and Main Street where you will flnd some of the city's flnest historic buildings. Sheriff Street hosts most of the bars, restaurants and nightlife, remaining lively until the small hours. The thriving port sees sugar, tirnber, bauxite, gold and diamonds leave the country, and a construction boom is underway that, with 1uck, may bring Georgetovm to the attention of a wider audience than it enjoys today.

POPULATION: GEORGETOWN

214,000 (2002) WHEN TO GO: July to November, February and April.

DON'T MISS: GEORGETOWN

The marvellous Umana Yana building, built by Amerindians in 1972', it has no bolts, screws or nails. The Red House, once the home of various governmental luminaries. Austin House, home of the Anglican archbishop. St. Andrew's Kirk, the oldest Presbyterian church in South America. City Hall - Gothic architecture par excellence.

YOU SHOULD KNOW: GEORGETOWN

The balcony at St, Andrew's Kirk had a high wall built on it to prevent slaves, who could only hear the service, from seeing their masters kneeling beloW which was considered'unfitting'.