Today is

By: Ikedi Ani-okoye

FEZ

Fez, situated in the heart of northern Morocco, was the imperial capital under the Merenid, Wattasid and Alaouite dynasties and has for centuries been the intellectual, historical and spiritual centre of the country. For many years it was one of the major cultural cites of the West, rivalling the great university tovrns of Europe. Today it retains the feel and look of a medieval Islamic city, and as you wander through the labynnthine shady streets of the old town, exotic smells if mint and spices wafting through the air, you feel you have gone back in time.

The old town is one of the largest living medieval cities in the world, the souks stretching for over a mile. It has changed very little over the passing years, still featuring the 'traditional seven elements': mosques, medersas (Koranic schools), souks (markets), fondouks (lodging and trading houses), fountains, a hamam (steam bath) and a bakery. The narrow alleyways are fllled with artisans creating and selling their wares using traditional techniques. You can see leathers being treated in the tanneries, copper pots being soldered, brass plates being engraved, and a whole host of colourful ceramics, embroidery carpets and food stuffs being hawked in a constant round of buring and selling.

The gates and walls of the old tornm (Fez el- Bali) remain intact, adding to the mystery inside. The towering Medersa Bou Inania, a theological college built in 1350, dominates the city and is one of the most spectacular buildings in the whole of Morocco. With elaborate carving, tile work and decorative stucco, this was the last and grandest monument built in Fez by a Merenid Sultan, designed to rival the Karaouine mosque, the largest in North Africa. The Boujeloud Gardens (Jardins de la

Marche Verte) are a peaceful oasis of calm, offering a well-earned rest from the bustle of the old town. Sip a glass of mint tea the pleasant
open-air cafe, and nibble on some tooth-achingly sweet pastries to give you the strength to continue. Move on to the Dar Batha Palace, built at the end of the nineteenth century for the reception of foreign ambassadors. It houses the Museum of Moroccan Arts and Orafts, but is worth a visit just for its cool courtyards and tranquil gardens.

POPULATION: FEZ

947,000 (2004) WHEN TO GO: March to June, or September to December.

DON'T MISS: FEZ

The medina (old town). Boujeloud Gardens. Dar Batha Palace. Medersa Bou Inania.

YOU SHOULD KNOW: FEZ

It is easy to get lost in the medina - keep your bearings.